Inside Story

The Spring/Summer 2026 season is off to a fantastic and innovative start at the Men’s Fashion Weeks in London, Milan and Paris. 

As Hypebae reports, though primarily focusing on menswear, there were also a slew of co-ed shows and presentations to be seen, from Martine Rose’s return to U.K. soil to the most recent collection from Fiorucci.

However, the more traditional luxury brands showcased menswear collections, with particular highlights including Prada, Saint Laurent and Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton. Elsewhere, Willy Chavarria presented a power provocation in his “HURON” collection, Jonathan Anderson made his much-anticipated Dior debut and Jacquemus closed the season at the Château de Versailles.

Here’s Hypebae’s rundown of this season’s standout menswear moments.

Jonathan Anderson’s Dior Debut

First up, the debut everyone’s been waiting for. Jonathan Anderson’s Dior Men’s SS26 debut was a bold recalibration of the house’s heritage. He reimagined Dior’s Bar jacket in Irish Donegal tweed and played with proportions through voluminous shorts and deconstructed tailoring. Set in a gallery-inspired space, the collection channeled literary depth and 18th-century elegance through a modern lens. With thick ties, denim tuxedo pairings and book-themed accessories, Anderson’s vision signaled a fresh, intellectually charged chapter for Dior at Paris Fashion Week. We can’t wait to see what’s next for womenswear this coming October!

Prada’s “Change of Tone”

Prada’s SS26 menswear collection was presented at Deposito of Fondazione Prada during Milan Fashion Week. Titled “A Change of Tone,” the new collection marked a slightly different direction for the brand, moving away from themes of power dressing and instead, taking a softer approach to styling and layering. Despite a seemingly more muted approach to design, this collection’s color palette was one for the books.

JORDANLUCA’s Fashion Week Workout

Following the ever-iconic “Wedding” show that JORDANLUCA hosted last season, it’s safe to say that the pressure to deliver this time around was pretty immense. Instead of falling prey to that pressure and trying to outdo themselves, the brand took a pause from the traditional schedule and prioritized wellness in the one place that does it best: the gym.

“It’s not always the right time to create a spectacle, especially in the context of a broader cultural pivot as more and more of us seek places in which to become stronger and healthier,” the brand explained in a press release. “There has been an industry-wide shift towards radical, conspicuous self-care. We’ve become less interested in fashion as theatre, as a cultural moment, and more interested in fashion as a tool for transformation,” the duo continued.

Vivienne Westwood’s Return to Menswear

Meanwhile, Vivienne Westwood did the opposite, unveiling its first menswear presentation since 2017. Presented during Milan Fashion Week, the showcase was held at Bar Rivoli near San Babila and featured a contemporary reinterpretation of masculinity, underpinned by the theme “Dandy Meets Granny.” As a result, traditionally masculine styles were flipped on their head, paired with cut-out silhouettes, exposed skin and of course: Vivienne Westwood’s signature platforms.

Saint Laurent’s Stop at the Bourse de Commerce

Saint Laurent easily wins best location so far, transporting guests to the grand rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection. The showcase was staged amidst Céleste Boursier-Mougenot’s incredibly picturesque “Clinamen” installation and explored themes of elegance and identity. Sticking to a sartorial formula of structured shirts, shorts and trousers, the collection featured hues of khaki and olive green, paired with hits of mustard, aubergine and black.

Pharrell and Louis Vuitton’s Homage to India

Pharrell Williams‘ Louis Vuitton finally had its India moment this season, following on from showcases like Vivienne Westwood and Dior. Celebrating Indian sartorialism, the showcase took place in Paris’s 4th arrondissement and took inspiration from the film, The Darjeeling Limited. Presented amidst a “Snakes and Ladders” board game-themed runway, designed in collaboration with Studio Mumbai, the showcase featured embroidered trunks, pastel-colored suits and LV’ signature monogramming.

Willy Chavarria’s Partnership With the ACLU

Willy Chavarria’s SS26 “HURON” show at Salle Pleyel was a powerful act of fashion as resistance. Opening with 35 men in white tees in partnership with the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU), the collection tackled immigrant identity and dignity through bold tailoring and sharp color. Walked by Amelia Gray, Paloma Elsesser, Sevdaliza, Stefon Diggs, Alva Claire and Kai Isaiah Jamal, the showcase centered on unisex silhouettes, oversized blazers, soft suiting, collared bombers and graphic T-shirts. The collection also unveiled the brand’s third partnership with adidas Originals, including new footwear models, Megaride AG and Megaride AG XL.

Wales Bonner’s Y-3 Collaboration

Wales Bonner presented its SS26 collection this season in Paris and outside of the classic track pants and sport-inspired silhouettes, the designer also debuted a brand new collaboration with Y-3. Landing across bowling bags and shoes, the collaboration was showcased alongside Bonner signatures like jeweled buckle shoes, suede loafers and ballet pumps.

Rick Owens’ Models in Water

Rick Owens showcases rarely disappoint and this season, the designer’s runway extravaganza saw models emerge from water. Titled “Temple,” the collection took inspiration from “the pursuit of glamor and sleaze” that Owens found himself searching for when stumbling through Hollywood Boulevard. Featuring studded straps, slashed leather and plenty of skin, the collection also featured a collaboration with the New York-based punk band, Suicide.

Doublet’s Farm-To-Fashion Show

Beans, greens, tomatoes, potatoes? Doublet‘s SS26 show was a surreal farm-to-fashion fantasy, blending humor, sustainability and craftsmanship. Inspired by “Itadakimasu,” a phrase showing gratitude for food, and agricultural initiative Sky High Farm‘s ethos, designer Masayuki Ino turned food into fashion—literally. Banana zip-up dresses, eggshell textiles and radish-shaped jackets strutted down a hay bale-lined runway. Materials like fish leather and repurposed nets made the absurd feel urgent and socially reflective. The collection poked fun at luxury while asking bigger questions about consumption, gratitude, and, ultimately, what we choose to value.

Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO’s “Ordinary People”

Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO‘s SS26 show was a masterclass in controlled chaos. Exploring the contradictions of “ordinary people,” the collection twisted everyday garments into layered, four-sleeved hybrids, worn backward, sideways or not quite at all. Original meanings were scrambled, giving the familiar a strange, emotional edge alongside the friendly faces of the brand’s signature dinosaur bags. Elsewhere, Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO collaborated with London-based artist Navinder Nangla, whose work stamped the garments with dyslexia-inspired slogans, including “Emptea Mind,” “This iz Twomorerow,” “Fassion Weak,” and “Khaos.” It was fashion as anti-fashion: subversive, vulnerable and weirdly tender in its refusal to let “normal” be simple.

Courrèges Summer Club

And last, but certainly not least, how can you round out fashion week without a good party? Courrèges‘ Summer Club was hands down the best in show. The vibe was all about optimism and togetherness, hosted in a curated space dedicated to freedom, joy and major community feels. Creative Director Nicolas Di Felice collaborated with scenographer Remy Briere and Matiere Noire to create the ultimate hangout, bringing pure summer bliss. The lineup was stacked, too, with six DJs bringing the energy: Bobby Beethoven, S-candalo, XD Erica, Angelita, Sene and Mykonos. Such a mood.

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Photo Credit: DFree / Shutterstock.com